Sydney Observatory Eclipse Trip 2010: The Saros Cycle

Their first ever total solar eclipse, I believe. Photo: Andrew Jacob

A total solar eclipse occurs when the Moon passes between the Sun and Earth. The Moon’s shadow (a small black spot) sweeps across the face of the Earth and anyone under the shadow spot experiences the eclipse for a few minutes each. See Dr Woodruff”s blog. The characteristics of each eclipse can be predicted by something called the Saros cycle.

In fact, these days we just use a computer and an astronomical planetarium program to predict how an eclipse will look. But in the past keen observers noticed that similar eclipses repeated every 18 years 11 days and 8 hours – the Saros cycle. The cycle is used to predict when & where an eclipse will occur and how it will appear. This has been known since ancient times. I suspect, but have no evidence, that the Inca would have been aware of the cycle.

Each cycle is numbered, although arbitrarily from the second millenium BC. The total solar eclipse of July 11 2010 was the 27th eclipse, and the 5th total solar eclipse in Saros cycle number 146. There will be 76 eclipses in all in this cycle. It began on Sept 19 1541 and will end on Dec 29 2893! How is that for precise long term astronomical prediction?

Within each even-numbered series the first eclipse occurs over the antarctic and every 18 years each eclipse appears further north until they pass over the arctic. Each eclipse is offset by 120 degrees around the Earth due to the eight-hour part of the cycle. This figure shows this nicely.

None of the previous eclipses of cycle 146 were visible to the Inca nor from Rapa Nui (Easter Island). However, several occured over the Inca empire during their time. One in particular passed north of Cusco on February 24 1514 (if my computer is correct), long before the Conquistadors arrived. Hardly a precursor of disaster it was just a natural, if spectacular, celestial event.

For more information on the Saros cycle see Fred Espenak’s excellent site.

As far as I can determine there has been no previous total solar eclipse over Rapa Nui, at least in the time it has been inhabited.

Sydney Observatory Eclipse Trip 2010: The Inca World

The Sacred Valley of the Inca – fertile and full of Inca archaeological sites. Photo: Andrew Jacob.

Before arriving in Peru for the Sydney Observatory Eclipse tour of 2010 my knowledge of the Inca civilization was limited: they worshiped the Sun, built extraordinary stone walls and their empire was crushed by Spanish conquistadors a few hundred years ago.

These are some of my observations and recollections of our guides’ comments – please keep in mind I am no expert on South American civilizations or their astronomy.

The Inca were not an ethnic group but a ruling class. They kept their Quechua people uneducated and taxed. In return they supplied a trickle of astronomical information for agricultural use.

However, they built on centuries of previous knowledge acquired by numerous pre-Inca civilizations and developed a substantial and extensive administrative network. With a population of 16 million they had plenty of labour on call to build their impressive palaces, lined with gold & silver and their temples, terraced hillsides & irrigation canals.

Only 15% of the population was Inca and only they held specific and detailed knowledge about their rituals, beliefs and constructions. The arrival of the conquistador Francisco Pizarro in 1532 changed everything. Using a dispute between two half-bothers who ruled the empire and a dose of treachery he supplanted Inca rule for his own. In the process the Inca were destroyed and their knowledge lost.

Today we are left with buildings apparently aligned to various celestial events including solstice sunrises and sunsets. We know of a few bright and dark constellations. However, with no written record we have no idea of the true purpose of many buildings, carved rocks and the strange nubbins of rock jutting out of many walls.

The Sun Temple at Machu Picchu showing the summer solstice window, masterful stonework and mysterious rock nubbins. What were they thinking? Photo: Andrew Jacob.

It is reasonable to assume the alignment of a window or rock towards a solstice sunrise or sunset is intentional because of the importance of these dates for agriculture. However, with no written records or true understanding of a lost cultures perspective on the world it is easy to overinterpret the evidence. And an alignment is not proof of intention.

Sydney Observatory, for instance, is aligned with the cardinal directions and has decorative architectural features. The only important ‘alignments’ however are that of the Transit Telescope (north-south) and the mount of the South Dome refractor. Without information about 19th century architecture and engineering skills or the concept of science a future civilization would not understand our building.

There seems to be much speculation and little certainty regarding the Inca. Everyone seems to have their own interpretation. An unsolvable mystery is the most enticing of all.

Exhausted Mel reports from Lima

Our star eclipse chaser Mel Hulbert has just sent three images of yesterdays eclipse as seen from Rapa Nui. She hasn’t slept in 24 hours and is now in Lima on her way to the Nazca. After some much deserved sleep I am sure we will hear more from her and the others lucky enough to have seen this spectacular event.

The Diamond ring effect showing Baileys Beads

‘Totality at Tahai’. The Moai in the image is Ahu Ko Te Riku – the one with eyes.

2010 Sydney Observatory Eclipse Trip: Eclipse Day

Melissa, Toner and Lilly on Rapa Nui preparing for the 2010 total solar eclipse. Photo Andrew Jacob

At 3am on July 11, 2010 we were all disturbed in our sleep by incoming aeroplanes carrying more eclipse viewers. The wind was howling, rain was lashing at the tents. At 6:30am there was a cry from Lilly ‘Get up, get up! There are stars, I can see Pleiades!” After 2 days of rain and cloud the sky was clearing, however, the occasional shower and a howling wind persisted.

At 9am we piled into the bus, raincoats, warm weather gear at hand to Tahai. The National Parks had given us special permission to erect a basecamp tent next to the Park Ranger’s hut.

There are three Ahus at this site and we mainly setup our tripods in the viewing area in front of the imposing Ahu Tahai, looking topwards Ahu Ko Te Riku, the Moai with eyes.

There were about 1,000 other eclipse viewers, stalls selling local crafts, and a traditional dance group. People had come from North America, Italy, France, Germany, the UK, Japan and Switzerland and there were many Chileans. There was a relaxed atmosphere with many local families present. We gave solar glasses to the police on crowd control duty. Members of our group were interviewed by Rapa Nui TV and Chilean journalists.

At 12.40 ‘first contact’ (when the edges of the Sun and Moon first meet) occurred behind a cloud but it quickly passed. Everything stopped, people viewed through their special eclipse glasses and cameras started clicking. By 1:40pm we began to use Lisa’s pinhole paper camera and Barbara’s hat gave us a wonderful array of tiny partial eclipse images.

“The light is getting softer, European” said Robin. Then at 2:08pm totality began with a brilliant diamond ring effect. The temperature had dropped, there was a roar from the crowd, traditional drums beat their rhythm, and fire sticks were waved – a unique cultural background for this eclipse. “It’s unbelievable” said Robyn. Totality lasted 4 minutes 39 seconds.

Totality! July 11, 2010, Rapa Nui. Photo Andrew Jacob.

“The diamond ring goes really fast” said Barbara. “Spectacular, the weather cleared perfectly” said Mel. “It was the fastest four minutes in my life” Toner exclaimed. “Everything flew out of my mind” said Ross. “What a blast” said Mike. “It was so much more than I imagined” said Jantina, our guide. “Beyond description” exclaimed Lilly. “I didn’t expect it to get so cold” said Carmel. “I’ll pop the champagne cork’ said Neville. “I was amazed by the shadow coming across the water” said Lesa.

And, after the rain and wind of the last few days Val summed it all up with “We are fortunate”.

From Toner and Andrew.

Sydney Observatory Eclipse Trip 2010: Easter Island at last

Moai on Rapa Nui lined up to view the Total Solar eclipse of 2010.

Well, we have finally arrived on Easter Island for our appointment with the Moon’s shadow. Not until our plane touched down on Mataveri airstrip, at 3:30am, did I quite believe we would make it.

I’m told there are four planes per day of eclipse chasers arriving more than doubling the island’s permanent population. Hence the internet connection is getting swamped! So Im sending this report while I have the chance.

Easter Island, Rapa Nui, Isla de Pascua is an enchanting island with much more than big stone heads (the Moai). There are caves to visit, extinct volcanoes to ascend, horse-riding, diving, swimming or one can simply sit around chatting with the locals all at an island pace.

The weather has not been too promising. Showers and cloud sweep across us, but sometimes the sun shines and burns. We have visited beaches, ahu (stone platforms) topped with stern-looking but proud Moai, the Moai quarry on Ranu Raraku crater, bought Eclipse T-shirts and talked till sunset with wine in hand. This is a special place eclipse or not.

We have a location scoped out nea the Hango Roa, the main town, for the big appointment. We will monitor the weather and keep our fingers crossed – the eclipse will happen, on time, as predicted. We are here, in place and ready. Now we wait.

Toner’s Easter Island Eclipse tour report from Cusco

Cusco sacred ritual and the Orient Express to Puno by Toner Stevenson.

The locals believe that Cusco is built in the shape of a Puma, with Sacsayhuaman, an Inca site which overlooks Cusco city, at the very head of the animal. Enormous blocks of limestone form a zig zag shaped terrace structure which was perhaps a fortress, as the Spanish believed, or a sacred site for worship. The hewn rocks, some as much as 9metres high, all fit perfectly together and were designed to withstand earthquakes. This was also a battlefield between the Spanish and Inca where tens of thousands of indigenous people lost their lives.

Andrew, Robin and I climb to the top to explore. Historians believe that there were three towers, but the remaining evidence is of two, one circular, one square, a maze of tunnels and a huge radiating pattern. According to our guide Maria, the tunnels connected the towers. From this high vantage point we view over Cusco, the central square and cathedral are most evident. It is also possible to view a massive circular stone vessel carved into the volcanic rock and an altar on another hill opposite. This is said to be veneration for the Moon and, when filled with water, the vessel would reflect the sky.

Cusco is a vibrant city and combines the Spanish Catholicism with local belief in Mother Nature. Within the Dominican Monastery we see Inca walls and a most interesting temple and doorway said to relate to the planet Venus. The winding streets have small cafes, art galleries and plenty of enthusiastic tourism vendors. Inside the Cathedral is the Black Christ and other religious sculptures that are carried through the streets on important holy days throughout the year.

We depart on our next adventure aboard the Orient Express train. This luxurious Peruvian Explorer has an open air rear carriage from which you can view and photograph the spectacular scenery. Live music and a fashion parade provide the formal entertainment. Our own Scenic tour director also proves she has talent and with guitar she serenades us in the bar with a Venezuelan song of love and loss.

The train stops at La Raya, at 4,319 metres above sea level, and we alight in the local market to purchase woven Alpacca fabrics and other crafts from women and children in traditional dress. As the sun sets we pass through Juliac to Puno, and we reach our hotel right on Lake Titicaca. The final presentations that night are about the Eclipse and we hope our good weather will continue.

Mel reports Pre-Tour Wind-Up

CAPTION:1 00 metres from the door of our hotel – Iguassu Falls
Image courtesy Melissa Hulbert

It was hard to put into words the experience of being at the falls, just the 10 of us including our guide Eder, however some of us managed a few comments of: “just incredible”, “mind-blowing” and “spectacular”. Everyone was amazed by the experience.

CAPTION: A very wet but happy tour group on the boardwalk under the falls
Image courtesy Ross McNair

In the afternoon after a quick change into dry clothes we visited the bird park where you could wander through large areas with birds such as toucans and macaws. The toucans were obviously used to people and had very cheeky personalities. They would come right up beside you; one had its beak in Neville’s pocket while another tried to take my water bottle out of my backpack.

IMAGE: Toucan with Ross and Robin
CAPTION: The aptly named ‘Mr Cheeky’ poses for a photo with Ross and Robin
Image courtesy Melissa Hulbert

The following morning the weather cleared a little (well it stopped raining) and we headed to the Helipad as Ibi and Gada Selim from Harvey World Travel Miranda/Cronulla had kindly presented each of the pre-tour participants a gift of a helicopter flight over the falls. Luck was on our side and we were able to go up. Just as the second flight was returning the clouds started rolling back in all flights afterwards were cancelled. The view from above was just as spectacular as being on the walkways under the falls and also showed the full extent of the falls.
Iguassu was definitely the major highlight of the pre-tour for everyone.
I should pause here and comment on our meals. Many of our meals were provided as part of the tour however we have had the opportunity to explore and find our own meals. Our first dinner in Rio was one such example. Ibi had gone for a wander during the day and mentioned he’d found the perfect place for dinner that night but refused to tell us the name or where it was as it was a surprise. So at 7pm that night we found ourselves a few blocks from the hotel in the very aptly named ‘Eclipse’ restaurant, a very appropriate place for our tour to begin! Visits to a Samba Bar with live music, a Tango show, and some great local restaurants provided some very varied and interesting meals.
Next stop was Buenos Aires, a city with some beautiful architecture which we all enjoyed wandering the streets and exploring. One interesting place was an old theatre that had been turned into a bookshop. The private boxes had been converted into reading rooms and the stage, still intact with curtains, lighting and overhead boardwalks, had been converted into a cafe.
We also had tango lessons and learned the basic steps of the tango. Everyone enjoyed learning this famous dance and a few have thought of taking lessons upon their return home.
Being in South America at this time also means that everywhere you go everyone is watching the World Cup and while in Buenos Aires, Argentina were playing Greece and fortunately the local team won. At the time of the game the streets emptied, the shops closed and everyone was glued to a TV. Walking the streets at this time was quite an experience as you could walk down the middle of roads that only hours earlier you were lucky to be able to cross even at pedestrian crossings!
We also visited La Boca, an area known for the tango and with all the buildings brightly painted and lots of small shops, with lots of merchandise for soccer fans. About four blocks are like an open-air museum and there were even kindergarten-aged children learning to tango – no wonder everyone is good at the Tango – they certainly start them young!
Recoleta Cemetery was like stepping into another world, literally a ‘city of the dead’ with huge mausoleums and paved streets with streetlights. Eva Peron is buried here – not on a main street but in a small laneway off one of the main streets. While locating her family’s mausoleum might at first appear daunting even when armed with a map, it was easy to locate if you just followed a majority of people. It is also covered in flowers and memorials unlike many of the other mausoleums.

IMAGE: Ricoletta Cemetery
Image courtesy Melissa Hulbert

Our final night finished is style with dinner and a tango show before flying into Lima the next morning to meet up with everyone on the main tour.
Our tour of the east coast of South America was very enjoyable and I and my fellow travellers are eagerly looking forward to our next destination – Peru.

Sydney Observatory Easter Island Eclipse Tour: Valley of the Incas

Guide Marcial Cruz, Mel and Andrew waiting for sunrise at the Intihuatana stone

The Andean Explorer diesel train wound north through the Villcanota valley, the sacred valley of the Incas, passing ancient sites carved into the steep mountain cliffs. The raging waters from the February floods have left their mark.

The fame of Machu Picchu, its spectacular siting and the mystery surrounding its purpose, is one of the highlights of the tour. With our local guide, an archaeologist, we attempt to understand its sacred meanings and deep astronomical secrets. The Temple of the Condor, carved in the shape of the bird; the snake window of the Temple of the Sun through which the solstice sunlight shines, the shape of this temple mirroring the tail of the serpent constellation (Yakumama), in Andean astronomy is convincing. Despite some oxygen deprivation, many of us made it to the Sun Gate, the entry to the site in Inca times.

The Sun temple at Machu Picchu whose shape mimics the tail of the constellation Yakumama (Scorpius to us)

The next morning we rose at 4:30am to get to Intihuatana, the Solar Observatory, for sunrise. Melissa, who conceived the tour and is the on tour astro-photographer, was prepared with tripod and camera for the sunrise. Cloud persisted, however we studied the site in detail searching for astronomical references. Andrew Jacob, Sydney Observatory Astronomer, achieved his ambition to climb Waynapicchu, a mountain said to be in the shape of a Puma, another sacred animal for the Incas.

Andrew scaled the steep paths to find the summit in cloud then descended to the Temple of the Moon. The rest of us returned to the town to see the Museum, Botanic Gardens and famous markets. The Museum is well worth the visit with an animation of an Inca priest offering gifts to the sun god at winter solstice in the Solar Observatory. Artefacts excavated from the site, including handheld mirrors and many examples of the round, reflecting vessels for safely viewing the sun and other astronomical objects are interpreted with illustrations and dioramas.

Now the tension is building for the Eclipse and the evenings are filled with presentations on the science, how to photograph an eclipse and safe viewing methods. The Saros cycle is a particularly interesting phenomenon. Lesa Moore, Sydney Observatory night guide, provided an explanation and took participants on evening stargazing walks to learn how to identify the stars, constellations and planets from Peru. Over the next few days we are visiting many other spectacular sites, travelling by Orient Express train through the country and visiting the famous Lake Titicaca.

Then it is back to Lima, on to Santiago and the flight to Easter Island where our tent accommodation has been booked since 2006. No doubt there will be thousands on the Island but the main element we are all focused on is the weather.

Andrew and Toner on the Sydney Observatory Easter Island eclipse tour discover the cosmology of the Inca

The view eastwards to the thirteen pillars of the Chankillo solar observatory at sunset. The Sun’s position against the pillars indicates the time of year, particularly at the solstices. Photo Melissa Hulbert

Lima is a city of 9 million built on a desert which meets the ocean, It is from here that we explore coastal Peru, a spectacular landscape which, when you look inland from the sea, could be on Mars. Our destination, Chankillo, is the oldest solar observatory in South America. Melissa had researched this area especially for our tour, it is well off the beaten track and we were alone in a windy desert with magnificent ruins which date from around 300BC. Our guide to
the local cosmology, astronomy educator, Carlota Pereyra, led us to where you can view the sunset over one of thirteen pillars constructed on the top of the ridge. A spectacular full moon rose in the east and then we viewed the Southern
Cross. The Two Pointers are known to the Peruvians as the eyes of a Llama within a major ‘dark-cloud’ constellation of that animal.

Local archaeologist Victor shows the group how the solar observatory works. Photo Toner Stevenson

Our next stop is the spectacular Sacred Valley of the Incas, with spectacular cliffs, mountaintops reaching 6,400 metres topped with snow, and the fast running Wilcamayu (Sacred River) and it is here we are steeped in the deep connection the Peruvians have with the mystery and wonder of the natural environment. Cusco Planetarium astronomers, Professor Erwin Salazar, Annamaria Milla and Roberto Balance bring their telescopes to our hotel and we view the night sky. Before the Moon rose we identified the Milky Way, seen also as a sacred river, dark constellations such as the fox, the serpent and the great and baby Llama.

Inca stonework at Ollantaytambo. Photo Andrew Jacob

Via small winding roads, passing locals dressed in colourful traditional Andean wear, we reach the great fortress of Ollantaytambo, our first experience of the might and mystery of the Inca Empire. Built in the 13th Century and abandoned when the Spanish conquered the Incas in the 16th Century, the extensive terraced hills and precision of the stonework hold wonders such as the Temple of the Sun. For the members of our intrepid solar eclipse group, this is the start of great thigh muscle development and adjustment to the altitude.

Dr Andrew Jacob, a Sydney Observatory astronomer, and Toner Stevenson, the manager of Sydney Observatory

Mel reports Sydney Observatory’s South American Eclipse Tour Begins!

Sydney Observatory`s Eclipse Tour 2010 started early last Tuesday morning as those of us doing the pre-tour left for Brazil and Argentina.

Following our 26 hours of flights and connections, we finally arrived in Rio de Janeiro very late Tuesday night. The following day was a free day for rest and a chance to look around. Our hotel is situated on the famous Copacabana Beach and many took the opportunity to visit the Fort of Copacabana and walk along the famous beach.

CAPTION – Copacabana Beach from above
Image courtesy Melissa Hulbert

Our main tour began the following day with our guide Edson and we started with a visit to Corcovado to see the the 30m high statue of Christ the Redeemer, and the magnificent views of the surrounding city. Afterwards we visited the Sambadrome Cultural Centre, home to the famous parade each year and a number of us had the opportunity to dress in some of the costumes. The small size of our group meant we were able to change our itinerary a little and a short walk through the downtown area allowed us to visit the oldest library in Rio built in the 1860s. There were many gasps of surprise and awe as the library is beautifully carved and decorated on the inside. Another short walk and we arrived at our highlight lunch at Confeitaria Colombo, a beautiful old building that has kept much of its original charm.

CAPTION – Lunch at Confeitaria Colombo
Image courtesy Melissa Hulbert

No city tour is complete with out a visit to Sugar Loaf Mountain and a ride up in its two cable cars again giving us spectacular views of the city.

Today we travelled by an open air jeep into the Botanical Gardens where we were lucky enough to see toucans, hawks, monkeys and many types of plants including the Brazilwood tree. Then it was off to Tijuca Forest and a hike along a track to the Taunay Falls.

CAPTION – Hiking in Tijuca Forest
Image courtesy Melissa Hulbert

CAPTION – Taunay Falls
Image courtesy Melissa Hulbert

Tonight we spend out last night in Rio at a Samba Bar taking in some live music before our morning flight to Iguazu Falls. The weather in Rio has been perfect, sunny warm days in the high 20s and even reaching 30 degrees yesterday and while many of us will miss this climate we are eagerly looking forward to the next stage of our journey.